Sichuan: Land of Abundance

Mar. 30th, 2026 11:47 am
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After Guizhou, the next leg of the China journey has involved a return to Sichuan for several days. Nicknamed "the land of abundance" it receives this appelation initially on account of fertile agricultural plains surrounded by mountains. This is still very important to the province, but these days it is also due to the bustling commercial activity in the capital, Chengdu, and the industrial heartland of Dujiangyan. Like other Chinese cities these have a marvellous mix of old and new and because of the way such cities are designed (i.e., no suburban sprawl) they also provide numerous opportunities for nature to flourish. Visited examples, in order, of such a combination include the Wuhou Temple, dedicated to Prime Minister Zhuge Liang and Emperor Liu Bei, political leaders of the Kingdom of Shu in the Three Kingdoms Period some 1800 years ago; Zhuge's story is particularly impressive.

China is famous for pandas, and no province more so than Sichuan, which is almost overwhelming in panda promotion. One particular site is "Panda Valley", a research, breeding, and rewilding centre that is home to dozens of giant pandas and scores of red pandas. The location, as expected, is quite scenic, with its lush, cool environment providing a pleasant home for these impressive and gentle beasts. Nearby is Mount Qingcheng, one of the most sacred sites to religious Taoism, specifically Zhang Daoling's "Way of the Celestial masters". The mountain area is astoundingly beautiful, with many Taoist temples and shrines well integrated into the environment. Our tour guide took some delight in her argument that giant pandas are Taoist because of their yin-yang colouration.

Nearby is a particularly grand example of ancient engineering Dujiangyan Irrigation System, built over 2,200 years ago and still in use today, a credit to the lead engineer, Li Bing, who managed to see this built without explosives. As the oldest and only surviving no-dam irrigation system in the world, it involved the building of an artificial island that redirected waters during the flood season and released them during the drier months. Since it was built, the Chengdu plain has been free from flooding, and the "water dragon" has been tamed. Unsurprisingly, it is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Sichuan is also home to numerous ethnic minorities, including the Qiang people who live in the forested mountains in western Sichuan, and have their own autonomous county, their own language, religion, and practise their culture, including colourful embroidery. After an interesting and lengthy bus trip, our group stayed at Shiyi mountain village, which included quite a greeting ceremony with local chanting, drumming, and firecrackers at our arrival, and in the evening, a bonfire and dance. It must also be noted that the village was reconstructed after the devastating Wenchaun earthquake. Finally, there was a visit to the Sanxingdui Museum, with its impressive collection of Bronze Age artefacts dating back over 3,500 years. It seems that Sichuan has been a "land of abundance" for many centuries.
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I have just spent the past four days in Guizhou, a south-western inland district of China. The physical geography is nothing short of stunning, with most of the area covered in lush woodlands over karst hills and mountains, which, even in spring, are often shrouded with cool mists underneath grey skies. It is among some of the most beautiful landscapes I have seen, and I have been fortunate enough in life to see a great deal. One such area includes the Huangguoshu Scenic Area with its numerous waterfalls; the main one (at 100m wide and 78m high) includes a cave system behind the waterfall. This is also the location where, according to legend, the classic story "Journey to the West" begins, and the site has many monuments to this tale. I thoroughly enjoyed teaching our local guide the opening verse and chorus to the BBC series "Monkey Magic". What little flat land exists in valleys is home to packed population centres and intensive farming. As always, the physical geography has a profound influence on social geography, with Guizhou being home to numerous ethnic minority groups, such as the Buyi, Miao, Dong and Yao, whose language and culture are not just recognised but celebrated and are prevalent in locations such as the Qingyan Ancient Town.

In more recent years, Guizhou has become home to some truly remarkable projects, which I also had the opportunity to visit. This includes the world's longest and highest bridge at Huajiang Canyon, which was completed last year. Over 2km in length and a deck height of 625m, the bridge has a walkway underneath with a magnificent view, including a bungy jump, albeit at the eye-watering price of 3000RMB. Another project of note is FAST, the Five-Hundred-Metre Aperture Spherical Radio Telescope (FAST), the world's largest and most sensitive single-aperture spherical radio telescope and includes a well-designed Astronomical Experience Museum, which includes a theatre, planetarium, and a special exhibit on black holes. It also includes a bungy jump, which at 80RMB was incredibly affordable, but alas was closed because it wasn't holiday season - stymied again! FAST is in a radio-quiet zone, which means no digital cameras, mobile phones, or even gate buzzers. The surrounding Tianyan Scenic Area more than makes up for this minor inconvenience, and one could easily spend at least a week here. Finally, Guizhou is also home to the first National Big Data Pilot Zone, which makes a great deal of sense given some of the scientific projects that are occurring nearby.

Although often overlooked by foreign tourists, in many ways, Guizhou represents a remarkable combination and harmonious balance between ancient and modern China. This is a place which, whilst clearly self-sufficient due to soil and rainfall, was less developed than the populous big trading regions of the east and southern coast. It is certainly a place that could cultivate a slower-paced and peaceful life, and unsurprisingly features heavily in classical Chinese artwork as well as being a home for the contemplative and ecologically-minded. New constructions, such as the projects just mentioned, and the extensive fast train networks with their tunnels and bridges abound, have all been introduced gently and alongside the natural environment. Although my stay was fairly short and I did not nearly visit all the remarkable sites, I feel quite confident in recommending Guizhou as a place that is well worth a visit, and I hope to do so again one day soon.

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